Monday 29 February 2016

REVIEW - The BodyShop Synthetic Brush

Welcome to a review I conducted way back when I first got this brush.

WHAT IS IT, AND WHAT DOES IT DO?
Body Shop Synthetic Shave Brush - A shave brush, designed to build and apply lather to your boat race.  Doesn't get any more complicated than that.





APPLICATION METHOD AND DESCRIPTION:
As with any brush, it's a case of dampen, load with soap cream and whip.  I found with this brush, you have to work creams a little more to get a satisfactory lather.  With soaps less so.



CONCLUSIVE COMMENTS:
Well, I've used it every day for 7 days now, and my findings changed from beginning to end.  Day 1 the brush had ridiculous amounts of backbone, almost too much.  The tips have been super soft since day 1.  As time went by, the bristles seemed to 'give' a little, resulting in a much more pleasant lather application.  I can't say at this point if I prefer bowl or face lathering with the brush, as it seems equally at home with either.  What I can 100% say about this brush is that it is efficient.  Teutonic efficient.  Like BMW/Mercedes/Audi, it does exactly what it should do and does it well with no fuss.  It always lays down an even coat of lather regardless of application method (bowl or face).  It rinses easily, and dries with no fuss.  A good synthetic brush to break into the synthetic brush market.

WOULD YOU BUY IT AGAIN?
Well, it is a budget brush in terms of cost (£7).  I have no other synthetic brush to compare it to, but that's by the by.  If it lasts a reasonable time (I've read a few reviews on the companies website that are showing short lifespan) then I would buy another for sure.  Most complaints seem to be the handle cracking or the knot falling out.  As long as the handle stays in one piece, I can reglue a knot no problem.


UPDATE
Well, I've had this brush for quite some time now, and I use it almost exclusively.  I've had zero issues with the brush at all, so I do wonder what people must have been doing with their brushes to damage the handle or lose the knot.  It has broken in nicely, and performs just as well as it did in those first 7 days.  This brush is a bona-fide bargain, worthy of a place in a beginner and advanced shavers arsenal alike.

Sunday 28 February 2016

Traditional Shaving Saves You Money?

Welcome to the latest installment of Sorrell Shaves!

Today we discuss the topic of the cost of shaving.  We've all seen the astronomical prices of modern cartridges, and the ever increasing presence of batteries in your razor, leading to yet more cost and buzzing objects in the bathroom.  Take note, not even your toothbrush really NEEDS batteries.  A razor sure doesn't.  Anyhow, I digress.

With a little research you can see that razor blades for DE razors are vastly cheaper than cartridges.  Yes, an actual DE razor could well cost much more than your average Mach 6.5 mk3 buzzer-equipped Super Razor (you can get some budget models south of £20), and a puck of soap is likely more than your average can of ectoplasm (sorry, shave gel), but stick with traditional wet shaving and you can start to see some savings.

From experience, one Mach 3 cartridge would last me two shaves before pulling more than your average Lothario on a Friday night.  A can of shave gel would last a couple of months tops.  Working this out over the course of a year, you come to a grand total of £317.05.  Quite a cost for keeping the whiskers away from ones face.

Now, based on experience with DE shaving, the cost is lower, quite a bit lower.  £96.39 to be precise (based on my most durable blades, 4 pucks of soap, a Merkur 39C razor and a simple but effective brush).  For the first year, you're looking at a saving of 69.6%!  Modern cartridge shaving is over THREE times the cost of traditional shaving if you will.  Quite impressive isn't it?

Now, you could of course achieve these savings if you can avoid the rabbit holes and acquisition tendencies we all suffer from.  What do I mean?  Well it is simple.  Once you try one quality item, your mind wonders what else is out there to try.  This curiosity leads to one more soap, or one more razor, or indeed one more brush.  The savings can quite simply vanish into thin air, or even cost you more than cartridge shaving.  By the time you've been through various soaps and razors to find your ideal combinations, those savings could well be clawed back...but it will take the patience of a Saint, the will power of...well, someone with an awful lot of will power to not buy more in the search of perfection.

In short, if you are strong willed, or indeed trying your hardest to reduce your costs, you CAN save money, but in the long run, you WILL get tempted.  I will leave you with this one simple meme that all of us can relate to, especially internally when we're explaining away yet another purchase.


REVIEW - Phoenix & Beau Tallow Soap - Unscented.

OK, so I am posting this review over several days using different equipment and will update this post as I go.

WHAT IS IT, AND WHAT DOES IT DO?
Phoenix & Beau Soap, Tallow Formula (unscented for purposes of testing).

APPLICATION METHOD AND DESCRIPTION:
OK, so, I pressed the soap into an old cereal bowl quite easily, so a soft soap indeed.  I bloom it for the duration of my hot towel and scrub preparation, and use the bloom water to help load the brush.



SCENT:
I'll not comment on the unscented aspect, more what I think would work wonders for me with a soap of this nature.  I'd like to see woody, masculine scents here, so sandalwood, maybe something peppery.

LATHERABILITY:
A short bloom ensured the Body Shop synthetic brush loaded with ease.  I loaded for about 15-20 seconds, which gave ample pre-lather that I transferred to my 'The Shaving Room' bowl, added a moderate amount of water to start the building of lather.  The lather never had that large bubble phase I get with some other soaps, but I did need to add plenty of water.  The lather as it started building had an element of elasticity that I've not seen in any other soap I won.  Added a little more water to thin the lather slightly as I was using a shavette today.  The lather when formed was rich and yoghurty, built without any real effort at all.



Tomorrow (day 2) I will lather using a boar brush to see if there is any discernible difference.  I'll update accordingly with new photos and comments on lather.

DAY 2 - No issues building a lather here either.  Had to add a little more water as the brush seemed to soak up plenty during the building of lather, but not exactly a problem at all.


DAY 3 - Used the mighty Omega 49 today, and boy did this brush make mincemeat of the soap!  Knowing the lather hogging properties of this brush, I did load it for a bit longer, and proceeded to the bowl with the chewing gum consistency spoken of by others.  Plenty of water later, I was greeted with more lather than you'd need to shave a Grizzly Bear!


This is the remaining lather from day 3 shave!  So much lather left, might not use this brush with the soap long term.

DAY 4 - Back to the Body Shop Synthetic brush today, with a little added glycerine.  No difference in lathering at all.

DAY 5 - As per yesterday, Body Shop Synthetic brush, no glycerine, usual bloom - fantastic lather

PERFORMANCE:
This for me is key.  Having read some of the initial comments on the quality of the lather, I had high expectations.  With that in mind, I chose a shavette for DAY 1 shave.  I painted the lather over my prepared (hot towel and face scrub) skin and proceeded to take short, deliberate strokes with the razor.  I could tell instantly that the lather protected the skin when taking off two days growth (I purposely didn't shave yesterday to give a good test).  I felt confidence in the lather to let the razor slide over the skin also.  I performed a two pass shave with the shavette, and not once did I feel tense or unsure of the soaps abilities to allow a safe, close shave.

DAY 2 - With the 39C and a 7th shave Astra SS, I felt this a good test for the soap.  The blade wasn't as sharp as I like, but the lather protected diligently, gave ample glide and no drama at all.

DAY 3 - Used the DE89 today and a fresh Astra SS.  First use of the razor meant there was an element of figuring out the nuances of this razor, so a good test for the soap.  The lather coped well with the lack of intuition for the razor, ensuring plenty of glide and cushion where needed.  Whilst the razor isn't my favourite, the lather certainly ensured there was no 'falling off a bike' type problems.

DAY 4 - Merkur 39C and Astra SS (2) with the glycerine enriched lather.  Oddly, I prefer the soap in its raw state, the glycerine didn't really add much to the shave that I could notice, testament to the initial very high quality lather of the soap.

DAY 5 - The lather was exceptional as usual, and with the added protection of my home blend pre shave oil, I think I've got a combination that will be impossible to beat when it comes to the shave quality.

POST SHAVE:
DAY 1 (shavette) - Here's the second most important thing for me.  Some soaps leave me tight and dry.  This was the polar opposite.  Not dry in the slightest, no taught sensation at all.  Top marks there.  The third and final element of post shave for me is alum feedback.  Previous history with shavettes showed strong to severe feedback under the jawline, with mild to moderate above.  This was massively reduced to zero feedback above the jawline, with mild to moderate below, testament to the protective qualities of the lather.

DAY 2 - As with day 1, plenty of good things to say about the post shave finish.  No dryness, tightness or any other drama you can speak of.  All looking good!

DAY 3 - Post shave experience is as good on day three as it was on the preceding days, superb finish.  Definitely a market leader in my humble opinion.

DAY 4 - Still a very good finish, not improved by the addition of glycerine to the lather.

DAY 5 - Sublime finish today, with the same level of softness and zero dryness as I've come to expect from this soap.

CONCLUSIVE COMMENTS:
DAY 1 (shavette) - Well, it's a definite thumbs up here so far.  The soap gave fantastic protection against the fearsome shavette.  Not once did I feel any decline in protective qualities, every aspect of the test sample stands up so far.  Loads and lathers well, protects and offers superior glide.

DAY 2 (Merkur 39C) - A great shave despite having a blade not at its peak in terms of sharpness.  I'll load a fresh blade tomorrow in to the DE89 for a fresh blade test.

DAY 3 (Edwin Jagger DE89) - Whilst the razor isn't my favourite (touch ups needed), the lather didn't let me down, it protected against any issues that can be found when using a razor for the first time.

DAY 4 - (Merkur 39C) - A great shave was achieved this morning, even with a sense of rushing the shave a little so we could visit the inlaws.  Still cushioned and protected as it has consistently done.

DAY 5 - (Merkur 39C) - Quite simply the best shave I've had in terms of performance and post shave finish.  If the scents I like will be included in the product that goes to market, then this will be an unbeatable product in my humble opinion.  Currently awaiting the product to go to market so that I can purchase...


UPDATE - Well, Phoenix & Beau launch on Monday 29th February, and I've already earmarked all four launch scents (including this unscented option).  I strongly urge you to try them out.  By doing so not only will you be using a vastly superior quality soap, you'll be supporting an English artisan.  The site is http://www.phoenixandbeau.uk/ and will be live on Monday at 6am!  You'll be silly not to!

Saturday 27 February 2016

The Concept of a 'Shave Of The Day'

Welcome to the latest ramblings from Sorrell Shaves!

Today we're focusing on the concept of a Shave Of The Day, otherwise known as a SOTD.  A SOTD is quite simply a snippet of information, often shared on forums and social media, regarding the items you've used to complete the days shave.

It will more often than not include a photograph of the items used, arranged in a pleasing manner.  Some people (like myself) have a backdrop for their photos, whilst others prefer an 'on location' shot taken in the bathroom.  There is no right or wrong, it's all down to preference.  There is no requirement for professional quality photos, just a quick snap is more than sufficient.  I take the vast majority of my SOTD photos with a Lumia 950 or iPhone 5.

The important part is the information you share on your SOTD.  I like to include a list of the items used, such as the SOTD from today:

Hot Towel
Mitchell's Wool Fat
Omega 49 Brush
TSR Bowl
Merkur 39C
Astra Superior Stainless (10)
Cold Towel
Barrister & Mann Reserve Splash (NP)


You may have noted the number after the blade used for the shave.  This refers to the number of shaves the blade has completed.  NP after the last item in the list indicates simply that it is Not Pictured.

So there we have it, a simple introduction to the Shave Of The Day.  You'll notice them all over Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and forums.  For many, they are a source of inspiration, a way of seeing what other people get great shaves with.  You may like to share yours, you might not.  It's entirely up to you. 

Thanks for reading,
Nick

Friday 26 February 2016

Merkur 39C Double Edged Slant Bar Razor (aka The Sledgehammer)

Welcome fellow shavers!

This post is dedicated to my first and favourite double edged razor, the Merkur 39C Slant.

I spent an inordinate amount of time researching this purchase, looking for what was meant to be the best razor to suit my sensitive skin and tough beard growth.  Everywhere I looked I saw slants purported to suit, so, a good look around at the modern options (I wasn't ready to buy vintage just yet) available led me here.

As you can see from the photograph, there is a subtle 'twist' to the head, meaning the blade runs at a slight angle from perpendicular to the handle, ensuring a guillotine type slicing action.  When you consider why this is, you begin to understand how it is more efficient at cutting whiskers.





 This is a two piece razor, and you release the head by twisting the ball end at the bottom, a simple and effective design, ensuring blade loading is simple and generally hazard free.


The razor is a closed comb design, with a heavily notched safety bar as seen below.


The subtle twist and closed comb design makes for a very comfortable shave, when combined with a nice sharp blade.  I personally favour Astra Superior Stainless (blue pack) and Gillette 7 o'clock Yellow blades in this razor.  They are sharp to the point where they cut very efficiently, yet retain a smoothness that renders irritation to the past.  I can shave in all directions with complete comfort (with, across and against the grain) when paired with a quality soap or cream, something I could never do with a cartridge razor.  Shave in short strokes for best results and you will be rewarded with quite probably the closest shave you will ever have.  Total BBS (baby bottom smooth) shaves were once a pipe dream, now they are an every day occurrence.  My skin, not to mention my wife, thank me for it.

The Merkur 39C is a well built razor, solid in it's construction, the plating is of high quality, and the overall impression from day one was that this was a very good purchase.  I have not been let down in any way.  

Merkur do state that the release mechanism requires a little maintenance, in as much as they suggest a little oil to prevent sticking.  This is no hardship at all, something that given you care for your face enough to consider proper shaving, will prove no issue at all.  It takes all of one minute maximum, and I do this once a fortnight.  I put a few drops of oil down the razor handle (through the hole in the middle, in the last picture shown), and sit the razor upright to allow it to flow down the handle.  Whilst doing this, I turn the release ball mechanism to work the oil in.  I then sit the razor inverted (head down) on a folded piece of tissue paper to absorb excess oil.  It's then ready to use next time.

So there we have it.  If you are looking for your first razor (or indeed an addition to your ever increasing collection), and you have sensitive skin and heavy growth, then you really should consider the Merkur 39C.  It is worthy of a place in anybodies shave den.

Thanks for reading!
Nick

Wednesday 24 February 2016

A guide to some shaving terms

Welcome to my current post regarding wet shaving.

To help out those peeking into the wonderful world of traditional wet shaving, I've put together a little article on some of the common terms you will see banded about on forums, Facebook groups and other places our little passion gets discussed.  Some will be obvious, others not so much, so this guide will help you out.  We'll start with soaps and creams.

SOAPS AND CREAMS

When it comes to soaps and creams, there are quite a few terms you'll see that may not make much sense.  Such as:

Glide - Simply the ease of which is afforded to a razor gliding over your skin.  The slipperier the better.  Think of a greasy floor versus a dry floor.  You'd much rather the feel be slippery than dry, causing the razor to skip over your skin, which invites cuts and weepers.

Cushion - How much protection against the blade do you get.  Simply, the more you feel the blade, the less cushion your chosen soap or cream offers.  Some people prefer to feel the blade, many others (like myself) prefer to feel less of the blade.

Croap - This is a made up word, an amalgamation of cream and soap.  Essentially, it is a hard cream, or a very soft soap, more akin to a cream.  Proraso soaps can be considered croaps (and incidentally are worthy of a place in anybodies collection).

Post Shave Feel - This is the feeling left behind on your skin once you've finished your shave.  Some skin can be left dry and tight by some soaps (your experience may vary), whilst others can be left rejoicing in wonder at the fantastic properties of the soap or cream.

RAZORS

Next on the hit list are razors.  There are many types of razor that have their own quirks, but these terms can be applied to all (with a few exceptions).

Aggressive / Mild - This term refers to exactly what it says.  If you've come from the world of the cartridge razor, these can be considered very mild indeed.  Now, a more aggressive razor can be said to feel harsh against the skin, due to the exposure and angle of the blade, which translates to a very different (some say more efficient) shave.

Single (SE) / Double (DE) Edged Razors - This is a simple description of how many shaving edges are available to you on your razor.  DE razors are undoubtedly the most common razor available, with there being devout users of each type.

Head / Cap - This refers to the non handle parts of a double or single edged razor, the bits that hold the blade in the position to shave.

Straight Razor - Your traditional cut throat razor, from days of yore.  They require patience and a steady hand, as well as maintenance, but they are worth it for the nostalgia alone.  Captain Long John Silver used one don't you know.

Shavette - These are  razors very similar in looks to straight razors, but with replaceable blades, often DE blades snapped in half, or proprietary blades such as the Feather Pro.


Grind - Not the type associated with the bump, this refers specifically to the shape (when looking end on) of the straight razor blade.  You can have wedges, hollow grounds (and varying degrees of 'ground' such as quarter hollow, semi hollow etc), near wedges and more.  I'll cover these in a separate article another day, but at least now you'll not be lost in a world of jargon.

BRUSHES

Another hugely important part of traditional wet shaving is the brush.  Lots of things can be said about brushes, some of the more common terms are below:

Knot - The knot is quite simply the hairs used to make up the brush part of the brush.  The bigger the knot, the bigger the brush in terms of width (common sizes include 21mm, 24mm, 27mm).

Backbone - This is how stiff the bristles are.  The more backbone your knot is said to have, the firmer it is and harder to splay (press flat) it can be.  This is a very personal thing, you may prefer lots of backbone, others prefer a floppy knot that can feel more luxurious

Loft - Quite simply how lofty (tall) the knot is.  The taller the loft, the more bristle length that is exposed outside of the handle, and as a consequence, the floppier it is likely to be.

Bristle - There are four common bristle types used in shaving brushes.  Badger, boar, synthetic and horse are the types you can find easily at just about all shaving vendors.  Badger hair (particularly silver tip) is one of the most popular options out there, said to be luxurious and soft, whilst being able to make a wonderful lather in most cases.  Boar is a generally firmer bristle, preferred by many.  Synthetics are very hardy brushes, as the plastic bristles are consistent, don't require particular treatment and they dry without any funky smells.  They are perfect for vegans and those who don't use animal hair for other reasons.  Horse is the least common option, but is still widely regarded.

So there we have it, a brief guide to some of the more common terms you'll see mentioned here and there.  If you see terms you're not sure of and want a bit of elaboration, please feel free to comment below and I'll update the glossary accordingly.

Regards!
Nick

Tuesday 23 February 2016

My Shaving Background

Welcome to my first proper post in Sorrell Shaves.

Like many before me who have entered the world of traditional wet shaving, I started out as a youngster.  I was shaving from the age of 11, initially with whatever I could find in the bathroom.  This happened to be disposables and whatever can of goop was there at the time.  My dad soon realised I was using these, and introduced me briefly to his DE razor.  I remember it having a red tip, but nothing more than that.

After a few goes at this, I didn't really like (or appreciate) it back then.  I stumbled upon cartridge systems (Gillette Sensor Excel) and felt at home.  Now, whilst I had little more than bum fluff, this was fine.  No drama at all.  However, once the beard growth started coming through thick and fast, it started to expose flaws in the cartridge system.  I tried changing razors (I migrated to the Wilkinson Sword Quattro and Gillette Mach 3 when they were available) in an attempt to make shaving more comfortable.  No joy.  I tried different cans of foam, gel, oils, you name it, with no avail.  I did find a couple of software items that made my life a bit more bearable, but this was still less than ideal as these products were post shave, designed to sooth and care for damaged skin.

So, it was some point in 2015 that I recalled the DE my dad tried to get me using (the irony being he was a cart system or electric shaver, depending on time available), and that it might be worth another crack at the whip so to speak.  With that came some due diligence, and I whittled down a mindblowing array of choice to a single razor, a soap that would work scent wise for me, and a couple of other accessories to fit the bill.  I already had a brush from many eons ago, so didn't need to buy one this time round.


From here on in, it was a very slippery slope into the various rabbit holes that appeared before my very eyes!  Soaps and creams became the new sweets to me.  Razor blades became a pleasant thing as opposed to beasts of burden.  Razors became a thing to admire as opposed to a mortal enemy.

I was hooked.  Since that fateful spring day in 2015, I have spent a small fortune on items related to shaving (all of which fit my description of considered purchases), something thankfully my good lady wife has been more than accommodating for (she does have shoe habits that we won't speak of) as she much prefers the groomed look as opposed to days when I rocked the hobo so to speak.

So there we have it, once I was destined to become Grizzly Adams successor, now I rival any Calvin Klein aftershave model in as much as I am smoother than the proverbial babies bottom, cleaner than a whistle...if you have never considered traditional wet shaving, let this be a lesson to thee...

Enter at your wallets risk.

Thanks for reading my introductory post!
Nick

Sunday 21 February 2016

Welcome to Sorrell Shaves

Welcome!

This is my shaving blog, where you will find out about all of the shaving products I use, by way of photos, reviews and perhaps if I'm feeling human enough for it, some videos too.

I hope to bring you useful information to help you make informed choices about what to buy to help you enter the wet shaving world, or expand your existing collection.

I will tag blog posts accordingly to help you search my blog for useful information.  If you have any questions, please feel free to comment or message me accordingly, and I will do my utmost to help where I can.

Many thanks and I hope you enjoy reading,
Nick