Shave of the Day - A Memorial Shave

Welcome to Sorrell Shaves

Today is a hard day for me, as it marks the sixth anniversary of the day we lost my dad.  He was a great man, who taught me many things, one of which was shaving.

 

I started out at a tender young age, finding whatever razors were around at the time (usually BIC disposables, the horrible orange plastic things) and hacking away at the fuzz emanating from my young face.  When my dad cottoned on, he taught me the ways.  I started out with what I recall being a Gillette Red Tip, only to migrate to a Gillette Sensor Excel, a Gillette Mach 3 and on occasion when I was out of blades, my dads Wilkinson Sword Quattro.

That brings me on to todays shave.  With six years passing, I'd not been able to bring myself to use my dads razor, but it is something left to me and it is something he'd want me to do.  So, with that in mind, this last week I set about obtaining the things I needed to replicate a typical shave of my dads.  I had his razor handle (Wilkinson Sword Quattro), and his old brush (another Wilkinson Sword brush).  He was a regular user of either L'Occitane Cade soap or the Wilkinson Blue Bowl soap.  I had also been left his old L'Occitane bowl but this was beyond use due to corrosion, so I purchased a replacement.  Sadly, the Cade soap has been discontinued, but I had a Wilkinson Blue Bowl soap in my collection already.  I simply put the puck in the L'Occitane bowl, an acceptable hybrid of items.  I purchased Quattro Titanium blades for the first time, £7 for four cartridges!  I remembered well his use of two splashes as I grew up, Brut and Old Spice.  I had the Old Spice in my cupboard too.  I added the Phoenix & Beau Balm as I know he would have sung it's praises highly.

With that, I prepared in my usual manner with a hot towel whilst the brush soaked.  I loaded the brush heavily on the puck as I was going to face lather today.  I took the time to lather whilst I contemplated the vast amount of happy memories, and it felt like my dad was standing there with me, like the first time he showed me how to lather.  I took the razor to my face, and found that the shave passed quickly and without drama.  I performed a two pass shave as my dad taught when I was a youngster, first with, then against the grain.  The razor gave a very good shave, close and smooth.  I did have to load the brush again for the second pass, but this is typical of the small knotted brush.  Once the shave was finished, I performed my cold towel session, then finished with the balm and splash.  A good shave was had today, it was a nice way to remember my dad on this hard day.

Hot Towel, Wilkinson Sword Blue Bowl Soap, Wilkinson Sword Boar, Wilkinson Sword Quattro, Wilkinson Sword Quattro Titanium (1), Cold Towel, Phoenix & Beau Balm, Old Spice

REVIEW - Phoenix & Beau 'Balm' (post shave balm)

WHAT IS IT, AND WHAT DOES IT DO?
Phoenix & Beau 'Balm'

From the Phoenix & Beau site:
"Our balm is something that can be used in a variety of ways, e.g. conventional skin moisturiser, post-shave, beard or moustache conditioner, post-surf, post-sun, post-ski, etc.

Carefully crafted to include conditioning and moisturising oils and waxes, we use unrefined shea butter, locally sourced organic beeswax, argan oil and jojoba oil to provide the nourishing foundation; a rich preparation which deeply moisturises and protects your skin (and facial hair). Shea butter is rich in omega-3 fatty acids and vitamins A, D and E. It is also UV protective and combats skin conditions such as dry skin, dermatitis, eczema and psoriasis. Beeswax is known to have anti-allergenic, anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties which can help to protect the skin from the elements, smoke and airborne particulate. Our balm also contains virgin hempseed oil and black sesame oil.

Like our soaps we make our balm in small batches and with our own hands."

APPLICATION METHOD AND DESCRIPTION:
Again, from Phoenix & Beau site:
"Super moisturising with powerful conditioning properties our balm will turn from semi solid to near liquid once it reaches body temperature. A little goes a long way and so we recommend placing a pea sized amount (perhaps a little more) in to your palm. Use the back of a nail to extract it from its tin before warming it with a brisk rub of palm to palm or finger to palm - now apply / rub in to your chosen area and ensure it is thoroughly absorbed.

Equally you can apply the requisite amount to a fingertip and dab it on to the specific area you want to moisturise before using small circular motions to warm and accelerate absorption."

I use the former, and treat it like an oil based pomade, rubbing vigorously between my palms, and then apply slowly to my face.  During use, I can detect a honey scent, that is almost savoury if that makes sense.  Taking the time to rub the balm into your face pays dividends because you get nice even coverage, and can detect any areas that you may have missed during the shave.

CONCLUSIVE COMMENTS:
I'll be honest, I don't often need a balm, particularly now I am using the Phoenix & Beau range of soaps.  That said, there is always a place for a balm with such restorative qualities such as this.  There are days where I want to use a different soap that doesn't give the finish I love of P&B, so the balm is used then, like today whereby an otherwise good soap leaves my face dry.  This mornings shave was brought up to scratch in the post shave department by the use of Balm, ensuring my face is as moist as a morning dew, and twice as fresh.  Some post shave products I find I am sensitive to, leaving a slightly unpleasant tingling sensation.  I get none of this with Balm.

It also works wonderfully on cold days.  I went for a 6 mile walk yesterday in the bracing wind, something that would ordinarily leave my face dry.  I applied the balm that morning prior to the walk, and my face felt fantastic despite the cold wind and rain.

If you're looking for something to give a fantastic finish to your shave, or just to your face in general, you'd do well to give Balm a try. 

REVIEW - Nanny's Silly Soap "Moroccan Sands"

WHAT IS IT, AND WHAT DOES IT DO?
Nanny's Silly Soap - Moroccan Sands

APPLICATION METHOD AND DESCRIPTION:
Load the brush (damp synthetic) for about 15-20 seconds, whip lather in a bowl, adding water until ideal consistency is achieved.  Apply to ones boat race in circular fashion, paint until even.  Shave.  Admire.

SCENT:
Now, this is where I can only quote Janice from Friends - Oh! My! God!

I LOVE this scent.  It reminds me of being in a Wiccan ritual, of heady piles of incense burning upon smouldering charcoal, filling the room with mystic smoke, designed to invoke the Gods and Goddesses.

LATHERABILITY:
I have yet to find a soap that presents a problem in lathering.  Some take a little longer to build a quality lather, others (like this) spring up a lather almost as soon as you introduce a damp brush to them.  A 15-20 second load produces plenty of lather for a full three pass shave plus touch up.  No problems here.

PERFORMANCE:
During the shave, I felt the lather protected well, cushioned against the blade and importantly, enabled a close, safe shave.  I felt no real problems occur during the shave, bar the first time I used, the lather didn't last very long on my face if applied a little thin.  No real problem, just ensure it is applied properly et voila.  It also has glide for days, very slick indeed.

POST SHAVE:
As I am sure you will have noticed if you've read any of my other reviews, that this is one of the most important aspects I consider when using and reviewing a soap.  Most vegetable based soaps leave me a little underwhelmed, not so with Nanny's.  I felt that this is up there with most tallow/lanolin containing soaps.  Having a scout through the ingredients list, I am left in no doubt that this is down to the shea butter content.  Top marks Nanny for this!

CONCLUSIVE COMMENTS:
Well, there is something special contained within the red anodised tin, something very special indeed.  The scent is heavenly, the performance superb, what more could you ask for?  I would definitely purchase again, and indeed will definitely try some of the other scents in the Signature range.  Worth every penny.

REVIEW - Bluebeard's Revenge Shavette

WHAT IS IT, AND WHAT DOES IT DO?
Bluebeard's Revenge Shavette - a replaceable blade razor, akin to a traditional cut throat razor.

DESCRIPTION:
Well, I looked into buying a shavette to see if I had the dexterity to hold a razor of this type before pulling the trigger on a traditional straight razor.  It is a plastic scaled, steel blade holding equipped piece of kit.  The blade loading mechanism is straight forward enough.  You simply lift the top piece away, allowing access to the holder.  There is a groove in the end (otherwise known as the 'point') of the blade holder that encourages the two piece holder to come apart, exposing the blade locating pins.

Once you've loaded a blade, it is as simple (almost) process of reversing the steps taken to open.  I say almost, as the snapped blade does have a habit of moving around in the holder until you've developed the knack of holding, locating and closing the razor.  The blade type is a snapped DE blade, and when you snap the blade, there is a bit of a kink where the blade was folded then snapped.  If you don't get it quite right, the blade exposure will be uneven and therefore presents a danger to your skin.  Definitely take your time when loading blades.

I find that it pays to trial many blade types in the razor to find one that suits your beard growth and skin.  I find you need a sharp, but smooth blade in this razor.  Duller blades such as Derby tend to tug, something you really don't want when taking an exposed blade to your face.  Gillette 7 o'clock Yellow or Astra Superior Stainless work best for me.

In use, the hinge point of the razor is fluid enough to manipulate during the shave, yet tight enough so as not to move once you have the razor in a position you are comfortable with.  The plastic scales are light weight, and the razor is comfortable to hold.  The shave experience is entirely dependent on your ability to maintain a feather light touch with the razor, and to be able to dedicate time to learning the required angles to ensure you don't cause your face to resemble a doner kebab.  And this is the downside to a shavette type razor.  The blades are extremely keen, and very much suited to a safety razor.

CONCLUSIVE COMMENTS:
In short, it's a piece of shaving equipment that absolutely demands respect.  In inexperienced or heavy hands it can cause some damage, and indeed to this day, I can still get irritation when I'm not giving it 110% of my attention.  It is a useful piece of kit however, as I can also use it to tidy up my sideburns or mow down several days of growth in a single pass much easier than a double edged razor.  Should you get one?  Well, yes.  It WILL force you to slow down and analyse your technique, and as such, develop a better technique and knowledge of your face.

REVIEW - Proraso Green Shaving Soap

WHAT IS IT, AND WHAT DOES IT DO?
It's a soft shaving soap, made in Italy.

Proraso Green Soap - Our shaving soap formula undergos a traditional “hot process”. The shaving cream is left to mature in small batches for a period of 10 days in a temperature-controlled room that protects the batches from temperature shifts. During this maturing process, moisture evaporates from the formulation resulting in a solid, concentrated shaving soap; perfect for professional brush application.
COMPONENTS - EUCALYPTUS OIL has a tonifying and purifying effect. MENTHOL has refreshing and revitalizing properties. GLYCERIN encourages a smooth shave, reducing irritation and redness. 

APPLICATION METHOD AND DESCRIPTION:
I swirl my dampened brush around the pot for about 10-15 seconds, which gives enough soap to make lather for four passes with touch up if needed.  Transfer to your bowl or face and whip up a storm.  It's suited for both bowl and face latherers alike, with no real difference in building.  I actually quite like face lathering Proraso, as you get the cold build up nicely on your face, great for summer.

SCENT:
The scent of Proraso Green is a bit polarising I've found.  The way I interpret the scent is contradictory.  I get fresh menthol vapours with the eucalyptus following quite strongly, but sometimes I find the eucalyptus a little musty smelling.  It's not necessarily a bad thing, just a property of the scent.

LATHERABILITY:
No problems here getting a good lather, but this is a soap that you can easily over water, killing the lather dead.  Add water slowly, literally a few drops at a time to build the ideal lather.

PERFORMANCE:
With Proraso Green, I find the cooling nature of the soap lends itself to seemingly killing irritation.  This is both good and bad as it can give that false sense of security, leading you to add more pressure than is needed.  That said, there is sufficient cushion with a well built lather to see you through a shave, and there is just enough glide to ensure you mow down your whiskers.  It's not the slickest soap I've used, but is more than adequate for all types of shaver.

POST SHAVE:
The cooling sensation offered by the ingredients give that really fresh feel when you've finished a shave.  I do get a bit of tightness, almost like my skin is half a size too small, it's a snug feeling if you will.  I do like to follow up with a balm when I've used Proraso Green to give a bit more moisture that my skin likes.  Again, not a huge downside, but one to be aware of if your skin dries easily.

CONCLUSIVE COMMENTS:
The low price point of the product does not indicate a cheap product, rather it indicates that quality products can be available at a bargain price.  I'd recommend this soap for anyone who loves a cold blast in the morning, or loves the scent of pressed eucalyptus leaves.  I took Proraso Green away with me on holiday last year as it is a reliable performer, doesn't take up too much space in your shave bag, and you know you'll get a great shave come rain or shine.  The question is, would I buy it again?  Quite probably yes, as it is a very well priced product, dare I say it punching above it's price point.

REVIEW - Edwin Jagger DELLI89bl

WHAT IS IT, AND WHAT DOES IT DO?
Edwin Jagger DELLI14bl Lilac Double Edge Razor - Purchased for the wife as a gift after she expressed an interest in DE shaving.  I will admit I've used it a few times myself, after all, when in Rome!

DESCRIPTION:
Blurb below direct from Edwin Jagger:

"The all new Edwin Jagger Lady's Pearl-Effect DE Razor is the only wet-shaving product designed specifically for women who are looking for a clean and effective shave, with a razor that reflects personality. A longer handle provides enhanced reach, for those trickier areas and a choice of four beautiful new pearl-effect colours means you can have a smooth shave without compromising on style. This razor will give you a soft and close shave when used with our Edwin Jagger shaving creams and lotions and we advise that you swap your blades regularly for optimal use. These fabulous, much talked about, DE razors are fitted with a precision Edwin Jagger DE blade head, a favourite amongst experienced wet shavers. The closed comb head is expertly engineered and is finished with high quality chrome plate. Dimensions:Handle Length 93mm(3.7in) Total Length 101mm(4in)"

I've taken some photos showing the individual parts of the razor and how they fit together.  Notice the quality of the plating, the finish overall and the fit.  It's a quality item make no mistake.

CONCLUSIVE COMMENTS:
This is a well built razor, mild in use and quite forgiving.  For those starting out in traditional wet shaving, or those looking for a mild razor, you'd be hard pressed to beat the DE89 head from Edwin Jagger.  The handle personally for me is a little on the slippery side, but not to the point it is rendered unusable.  The colour too, as per the description from EJ, is really aimed at women or those who really like lilac!  Not my personal taste, but my wife loves it.  She is able to use it with comfort (as indeed can I), without feeling too much of the blade.

REVIEW - Mongoose B3 Satin Single Edged Razor

WHAT IS IT, AND WHAT DOES IT DO?
Well, for those not in the know, it is a Mongoose Satin (B3), single edge razor, manufactured from stainless steel.

METHOD AND DESCRIPTION:
This was where I was expecting something quite different.  I'm not sure why but I did.  Anyhow, I digress.  The angle is quite intuitive on this razor, and with the standard handle, it is nicely balanced.  Because of the hefty weight of the handle, there is no inclination to use any pressure at all, something fundamental to a good shave.  The standard handle is the ideal length for me as I have quite large hands, it fits perfectly.  So, with the razor being comfortable in the hand, I had high hopes for a good shave.  I wasn't to be disappointed.  I'd done plenty of reading on the Mongoose as let's face it, the value of the razor means it's a significant razor-based purchase.  I'd read that for some the head is very big, verging on too big.  Some people said the handle was too heavy.  All I noticed (coming from traditional DE shaving) that the extra width on the blade took some 30 seconds tops to get used to.  The shave was very quick, too quick in fact.  It was so smooth (with a Feather Pro blade) that I barely noticed the blade at all.  Three passes (with, across and against the grain) were achieved in lightning speed, with ZERO drama.  Even my trouble spots where anything less than a blade that is lethally sharp felt like they were being massaged by twenty vestal virgins as opposed to being attacked with a razor blade.  In Yoda speak, blown away I was.

Now onto the razor description.  This is clearly a very high quality item, machined to very close tolerances, and finished to almost perfection.  The razor is a three piece unit, with lugs on the top cap to hold the blade securely between it and the head.  Everything just fits like a glove.  The handle screws securely onto the threaded stud without any force, and just holds itself perfectly in place.  I'll let the photographs do the talking from here on in...

Top cap and base plate:

Together:

Paul (globalm from The Shaving Room) was kind enough to loan me two handles with the razor, the top being the standard, the lower being a Hempel Titanium (quite a bit lighter and a good half inch shorter):

Quality finish:

Hempel:

Razor built (sans blade):

With Hempel:

Loading a blade:

 Loaded:

CONCLUSIVE COMMENTS:
OK, I wanted to be blown away by this razor for various reasons (mainly cost and the perceived hype), and I was NOT disappointed one bit.  The shave is quite simply remarkable, and ultimately it would be this that was the deciding factor as to whether or not to purchase a Mongoose.  Being a high priced item, buying one blind is a huge risk, but thankfully, the very generous nature of the wet shaving community (and in particular Paul who honoured me with the loan of this razor) allowed me to try before I buy.  This razor, grouped with a quality Feather blade, and sublime soap (Phoenix & Beau) have given me the very best shaves of my life.  I do not think that this can be improved upon.  It is THAT good.

REVIEW - Phoenix & Beau Solaris Tallow Soap

WHAT IS IT, AND WHAT DOES IT DO?
Phoenix & Beau Solaris Soap - A tallow based soap, that gives exquisite shaves.

APPLICATION METHOD AND DESCRIPTION:
As I found with the early samples of the P&B tallow soap, this soap loads nice and easy, and gives a lather that is dense, rich, creamy and almost totally void of visible bubbles.  Using any type of shave brush, you can get a quality lather that is a joy to use...read on!

SCENT:
This is the most delicately fragranced so far of all Phoenix & Beau's offerings, but that's not to say it is lacking in scent, only that like a summers meadow, the scent is gentle, almost caressing of your nose.  The strongest note is the bitter lemon, followed by the balancing mint that brings an element of a balmy summers evening, sipping a G&T on the picnic blanket in said meadow.  Very fresh, ideal for a day where you want something slightly cooling.

LATHERABILITY:
As we've come to love (and expect), Solaris lathers up a storm very quickly indeed.  A wet brush taken to the soap brings oodles of prelather that creates this beauty in the bowl:

PERFORMANCE:
Performance is clearly something very important to Phoenix & Beau, as Solaris has all the boxes ticked.  More glide than a figure skater on ice and more cushion that your local DFS (or indeed any other sofa superstore).  I am in no doubt that this is a result of the thorough testing that occurred prior to launch, something I love about the P&B ethos, involve the customer in every stage.

POST SHAVE:
Yes, yes and more yes.  I tried a new razor today (see photo below) and found that even with a fearsome blade, there is no degradation in PSF (post shave finish).  My skin feels exactly like it should.  Top marks again.

CONCLUSIVE COMMENTS:
Well well well, a full house of brilliant soaps in the Phoenix & Beau collection.  To be honest, I had no doubt that this would be the case.  The care that goes into making these soaps is evident in every aspect.  This is an ideal soap for someone wanting a fresh scent, amazing performance and unparalleled post shave feel.  I leave you with this photo of what was a glorious shave of the day, brightened indeed by the rays of Solaris.