Welcome all to another installment of my blog and video log! The soap of the day is Proraso Green, a long standing soap in the wet shaving world. Is it worthy of a place in your rotation? Watch the video and see what happens!
SOTD 7/8/16
Hot Towel, Triple M Oil, Proraso Green, RazoRock Monster, RazoRock Bazooka, Astra SP (26), Cold Rinse.
A great shave was had today, you'd not know the blade was 26 days old!
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Greetings gents! Welcome to another post, with another video review of a fantastic soap. Below is a brief outline of the tools used today. SOTD 6/8/16 Phoenix & Beau Obsidian, Cadman 26mm Silvertip, RazoRock Bazooka, Astra SP (25), Cold Rinse. Simply stunning shave, scent to die for, performance that is second to none.
So ladies and gentlemen, I have been trying a new soap, designed with summer in mind, to give you a nice chill! Check out the video to see my thoughts!
And to see how it compares to another stalwart in the shaving world (Proraso Green) in terms of cold, check out the below video where I simultaneously face lather both soaps.
If you have any questions about either soap, please feel free to comment on the relevant video or here and I will do my very best to assist!
WHAT IS IT, AND WHAT DOES IT DO? Phoenix & Beau Albion Shaving Soap - It's soap that enables you to shave!
APPLICATION METHOD AND DESCRIPTION: I've been testing Albion over the last 5 days to ensure I get to know it's foibles and idiosyncrasies. For the first two days I bowl lathered, and the second two days, I face lathered. Day 5 I chose my favourite method out of the two to lather...what is it I hear you ask? Well, the video review below will show!
SCENT: Albion was listed as having a predominantly bergamot, lavender and grapefruit profile, with patchouli in there to bind everything together. My initial response to the long slow inhale was wow. This is a very fresh and light scent, ideal for those who prefer a milder scented soap. Upon shaving with Albion for the first time, I was greeted with a very familiar aroma. A split second later I identified it as Earl Grey tea, which makes perfect sense given the presence of bergamot. It is a classy, light, elegant scent, very nice indeed.
LATHERABILITY: As is typical with Phoenix & Beau soaps, Albion lathers with criminal ease. A short 30 second load provides more than enough lather for 5 passes EASILY. I've learned that soaking my Cadman 26mm silvertip, then two gentle shakes provides the PERFECT amount of water to lather a P&B soap without the need for additional water. Rich, creamy lather is produced with this level of water in a bowl. For face lathering however, I suggest starting with less water as the sheer volume of lather created can overwhelm you if you're not prepared for it :D
PERFORMANCE: There is a stylised image of Her Majesty on the lid of Albion, and the performance matches the expectation of a soap more than worthy of a Royal Warrant. Those in Buckingham Palace need to try this soap, it would EASILY earn this accolade. Slick as you like, more protective than a 20 man protective detail, there is no flaw in the performance at all.
POST SHAVE: I'll say it again, a soap that provides a fantastic post shave is paramount for me. Albion does not disappoint. I'm sitting here stroking my face, trying to find a chink in the armour, but am coming up empty handed. I cannot fault the post shave feel at all. Smooth, no dryness, no tightness, nada.
CONCLUSIVE COMMENTS:
So, what do I think of Albion? Well, it is plain as the nose on my face
that it is a brilliant addition to not only my shave den, but the
product line from Phoenix & Beau. It has a delectable scent,
performance that other soaps can only hope for, and a post shave feel
that leaves you feeling GREAT! After the initial shave, I thought I'd
want a stronger scent, however, like a fine Earl Grey tea, the subtlety
of the aromas is key, for it is meant to be gentle. Give Albion a try,
it is truly fantastic.
I've lovingly prepared a video shave of the day
today. All the info is in the video, check it out guys and I'd very
much appreciate your likes and subscribes!
WHAT IS IT, AND WHAT DOES IT DO?
Cadman Brushes - Custom L7 Handle in Earth with 26mm Silvertip Badger Knots
THE BACK STORY AND INFORMATION:
OK, I remember when I first started using brushes, I knew no different, I had my Wilkinson Sword boar brush that cost less than lunch normally would. All was well with the world, I'd convinced myself I didn't need anything else. Fast forward several years, and I saw the brush as more than a functional device. I saw beautiful brushes from all corners of the globe and thought to myself that I wanted a piece of that, so I started looking. I acquired a few on my way to Cadman, namely a Bodyshop Synthetic, an Omega 49 boar and a RazoRock Monster. But at this point I wanted the elusive badger brush. I always had my eye on a Kent B4. It looked great and I couldn't argue with the reviews. Then I spotted Mervyn's brushes. A range of handle styles to choose from, a range of colours AND a range of knot configurations.
I'd spotted a handle Mervyn had made in a wonderful dark amber colour, with golden flecks running through it and thought WOW. So, I browsed Mervyn's website and spotted that you can have the brush with the Cadman logo in the base, or a custom design! This was almost too good to be true, a truly custom brush! I'd wanted something truly custom for some time, and knew I'd come to the right place. I'd spent plenty of time browsing SOTD posts on Facebook and The Shaving Room, checking out the brushes Mervyn makes. All good feedback, fantastic looking items. Cushty you could say. So, I got on the blower to Mervyn who advised he was currently between workshops and he had a bit of a delay in production. Not a problem at all for me, as I knew what I wanted and could tell it would be worth the wait. A good conversation was had about colour choices, knot options and whatnot and probably half an hour or so later, I'd given the order for two brushes, identical handles (in design and colour) and identical 26mm Silvertip knots. The unique aspect of these brushes meant a bit of digging for something for one of them, and a good couple of sheets of scribbles from me for the second. The unique part is clearly the medallion that is embedded in the base of the handle.
You see, it was my dad who taught me how to shave many years ago at the tender age of 11. He was (and still is) my hero, and I will say, would have thoroughly enjoyed my venture back to traditional shaving. I know I would have enabled him in terms of quality items, so, to honour that enabling that I would have done, I've got both him and I a custom brush, Father and Son brushes. To distinguish the two brushes (remember, handle and knots are identical), I decided to have them signed. Now it is difficult to get a new signature from my dad given his passing back in 2010, so I had to ask my mum to hunt down a quality copy of his signature I could use. This signature was on a document I'd never seen before, his discharge papers from the REME in 1981 when he and my mum found out they were expecting me (a quite fitting signature to use). It took Mervyn a fair bit of time to tidy up the image to present it as best as possible on the 1" disc. Mine took a little tidying, but not as much. All part of the Cadman service!
I asked Merv if it was possible to get some photos of the brushes in production, and he kindly agreed, here's a selection.
Now one thing Mervyn suggested to me was changing the colour scheme on the disc from black text on white to white text on black. I'm glad Mervyn did, here's how a white disc looked in the handle:
Now, for what I've spent and the wait involved, I could have purchased a few high end brushes and have them delivered next day, but where is the fun in that? The whole process of ordering from Cadman Brushes is why. It's not just a 'click here and buy now' process, it's an experience where you feel valued as a customer, and that to me, is a massive thing to feel when making a considered purchase. If you don't feel like your order matters, or that you're just another invoice ID in a system somewhere, you don't get that...je nais c'est quoi...that buzz when ordering. From the initial conversation to the much messaging throughout the workshop move and then the manufacturing process, I felt like as a customer, I mattered. During the manufacture process, Merv checked in with me to see if the first handle he'd produced fit my ideal that we discussed when ordering. Now it was fantastic, but Merv himself didn't feel like it was quite right, so he cast two more and would you believe it, they were PERFECT down to the last detail. Now Merv even admitted that in all the years he's been turning resin blanks, he's never had two turn out as close as these two have in final appearance. I honestly didn't expect them to be close matches (given they are hand cast and hand turned), but I am mighty chuffed they are as they are.
Here's a couple of photos with the original handle Mervyn turned (centre) with the final two (top and bottom) with the knots test fitted:
As you can see, they are fantastic! From here it was all a waiting game, for the discs to be completed, and the brushes to be assembled. It seemed like an age, akin to the wait you felt as a child waiting for Christmas. Anyway, time passed and Merv confirmed all was done and dispatched...Christmas Eve it felt like now!
The day of arrival was a tense one, I had the day off, and was busy doing bits and bobs, and the brushes were being delivered to work. I toddled off to wait, and ended up meeting the postman at the office door with the parcel. It was a magical moment, so headed home and recorded an unboxing and preview video:
And of course, it wouldn't be the same without some photos, so here they are.
So yes, initial impressions were very positive indeed, and I couldn't wait to use them in earnest. Having shaved that day, I had to wait until the next morning, where I used them both in the same morning to do a side by side soap comparison, and loved the feel. Soaked sufficiently to ensure proper use, they make mincemeat of soaps and creams alike.
The face feel is soft, with a little bit of something there behind the soft tips to give a reassuring feel. They hold plenty of lather when loaded well, and are simply divine for face lathering. I barely face lathered prior to having these brushes, and since getting them, there has been more face lathering than bowl. I alternate days for the brushes so as to get even use, and cannot discern a difference between either brush, testament to the knots themselves in terms of consistency. Lathering on the face or in the bowl is a breeze, the bristles hold plenty of water, and it only took a couple of days to figure out the right amount of flicking to keep the right amount of water in the brush to lather. Lovely stuff indeed.
I've only used these two brushes since they have arrived, and I can see why people hold the silvertip badger knots in high regard. They are superb in both the tips, the back bone, lathering, even the rinsing is easier than any other brush I own (I now have synthetics, boar and badger to compare). People often sit there and say can you really justify the cost of a high end brush over a budget brush, and I'll be the first to admit, I was in that camp at first. I was content with the budget brushes I had (none cost more than a tenner), but then curiosity struck, and now I appreciate the difference a GREAT brush can make to your shave experience. It is more than a brush. Granted, I am not sure quite what quantifies it as 'more than a brush', but whatever it is, it elevates the shave experience as a whole. They look amazing, feel divine and the fact that they are made to exactly my spec makes them even more special. I can tell that these will not be my only Cadman brushes, everything from start to finish ensured I am an extremely happy customer.
I'll leave you with a few more pictures of them in use as taken for some of my SOTD posts.
WHAT IS IT, AND WHAT DOES IT DO? Faena 'Mastic Tree' - 100% vegetable soap. If I need to tell you what a shave soap does, well, I think we need to start at the beginning!
APPLICATION METHOD AND DESCRIPTION:
It's simple. I choose not to bloom the soap as it is very soft (I moulded the puck with my thumb to fit the pot without any issue at all), a quick 10-15 seconds load on the brush and away to the bowl we go. Once built, I tend to lightly swirl on my face, then paint to get it even.
SCENT: The scent to me was the original drawing point to the soap. I had never heard of, nor smelled a mastic tree in my life. This of course piqued my interests, aroused my suspicions as to what it could smell like. Well, when it arrived, I had no expectation, so opened the pot and took a long slow inhale. I was very pleasantly surprised to find a fresh, heady scent, reminiscent of a herb garden (think rosemary) with a hint of cut grass. All together a very inviting, summery scent that could quite literally be found if you were to shave in your herb garden. Very subtle when lathered and on the face.
LATHERABILITY: With a quick 10-15 second load on my Body Shop synthetic brush, I got an copious amount of pre lather, thick and chewy in texture. In the bowl, it took a reasonable amount of water to make a yoghurty lather that was almost bereft of bubbles from the outset. A very pleasant soap to lather.
PERFORMANCE: I had high expectations from the naming of the product (Premium Handmade Shaving Soap), and for the most part, I agree. The lather is rich and creamy, providing more than adequate cushion against the blade. In terms of glide, the performance is not bad at all, very similar (if not identical) performance to other all vegetable soaps I own. It could use a little more glide, but it is not lacking, as the shave is performed without issue.
When a preshave oil (in this case olive oil) was used, the glide was perfect, nothing to note that could deduct points so to speak.
POST SHAVE: This is one of the most important factors for me in a soap, particularly on days where I don't want to wear a fragrance. I found that with the Faena, I didn't get the best post shave finish (when using the soap on its own), I got a mild amount of dryness/tightness after the shave. I get this with just about all vegetable based soaps, and some of the cheaper tallow soaps. Granted, I can negate this dryness with some balm, but it's worth noting that there must be something causing the dryness (comparable to that I get with Palmolive Sticks). I suspect it could do with either some more glycerin or another ingredient to enhance the post shave feel.
When used in conjunction with a simple preshave oil, the post shave finish is absolutely spot on, cannot fault in any way the feeling on the skin. It seems perfectly at home with a simple olive oil rub prior to lathering, in keeping with the Greek origin, my olive oil was of Greek origin. Lovely stuff.
CONCLUSIVE COMMENTS: Well, it's an unusual position I find myself in. I love the scent, I love the lather and in shave performance. I'm not 100% certain on the post shave finish, given what I know is out there. I'm not put off mind, as I know I can rectify the finish with a little balm or use of a preshave oil, so that one downside is a bit of a moot point. Would I buy it again? I would, as the scent is wonderful for summer or an evening shave, very fresh and the performance is good overall.
WHAT IS IT, AND WHAT DOES IT DO? RazoRock Bazooka DE Razor
It is a double edged safety razor, that shaves your boat race.
DESCRIPTION: Bazooka by name, Bazooka by nature. You can understand why it inherited the name it has when you first lay eyes on the razor. It is one huge hunk of metal. It is a heavy piece of metal too.
The handle is a solid stainless steel beast, nicely knurled and very solid. It adds some heft to the razor, allowing it to tip the scales at 5.6 ounces. It is not a long handle, rather it allows the razor overall to stand at a not so lofty 3 11/32 inches. The steel is polished in non knurled areas, and has a slightly rounded base.
Size comparison here, against my Merkur 39C (top) and an Edwin Jagger DE89 variant (bottom):
The head is of a closed comb design, and appears to be a plated pot metal, probably zamak. It is etched with the RazoRock logo on the top cap. Whilst the plating and overall finish of the two head pieces isn't up there with the likes of Edwin Jagger, Muhle and Merkur, it is not bad. The cap allows for reasonable blade alignment, nothing that would detract from the quality of the shave.
CONCLUSIVE COMMENTS: I was looking for a razor that was different from my slant, but emulated one of the properties I loved about a Mongoose, the hefty weight. This razor delivers in that department well! It is a joy to hold and a joy to shave with. The weight of the razor allows you to shave well with no pressure. It has a good amount of blade exposure, enough so that the blade almost sings as it slices through your whiskers. I first thought the short stature of the razor would present a problem, but I am glad to say it was not to be. Did it blow me away in any way? Well yes it did, the quality of the shave was superb. A fresh Astra Superior Stainless blade allowed for a close, but drama free shave. In one pass, it gets closer than my slantbar razor, not something I expected from what has to be considered a budget razor. Budget you say? Yes. It comes in for less than twenty Imperial Credits of the Realm. For a solid, quality stainless steel handle, and a nice shaving head, you'd expect to pay more.
WHAT IS IT, AND WHAT DOES IT DO?
Nanny's Silly Soap - Moroccan Sands
APPLICATION METHOD AND DESCRIPTION: Load the brush (damp synthetic) for about 15-20 seconds, whip lather in a bowl, adding water until ideal consistency is achieved. Apply to ones boat race in circular fashion, paint until even. Shave. Admire.
SCENT: Now, this is where I can only quote Janice from Friends - Oh! My! God!
I LOVE this scent. It reminds me of being in a Wiccan ritual, of heady piles of incense burning upon smouldering charcoal, filling the room with mystic smoke, designed to invoke the Gods and Goddesses.
LATHERABILITY: I have yet to find a soap that presents a problem in lathering. Some take a little longer to build a quality lather, others (like this) spring up a lather almost as soon as you introduce a damp brush to them. A 15-20 second load produces plenty of lather for a full three pass shave plus touch up. No problems here.
PERFORMANCE: During the shave, I felt the lather protected well, cushioned against the blade and importantly, enabled a close, safe shave. I felt no real problems occur during the shave, bar the first time I used, the lather didn't last very long on my face if applied a little thin. No real problem, just ensure it is applied properly et voila. It also has glide for days, very slick indeed.
POST SHAVE: As I am sure you will have noticed if you've read any of my other reviews, that this is one of the most important aspects I consider when using and reviewing a soap. Most vegetable based soaps leave me a little underwhelmed, not so with Nanny's. I felt that this is up there with most tallow/lanolin containing soaps. Having a scout through the ingredients list, I am left in no doubt that this is down to the shea butter content. Top marks Nanny for this!
CONCLUSIVE COMMENTS:
Well, there is something special contained within the red anodised tin, something very special indeed. The scent is heavenly, the performance superb, what more could you ask for? I would definitely purchase again, and indeed will definitely try some of the other scents in the Signature range. Worth every penny.
WHAT IS IT, AND WHAT DOES IT DO?
Bluebeard's Revenge Shavette - a replaceable blade razor, akin to a traditional cut throat razor.
DESCRIPTION:
Well, I looked into buying a shavette to see if I had the dexterity to hold a razor of this type before pulling the trigger on a traditional straight razor. It is a plastic scaled, steel blade holding equipped piece of kit. The blade loading mechanism is straight forward enough. You simply lift the top piece away, allowing access to the holder. There is a groove in the end (otherwise known as the 'point') of the blade holder that encourages the two piece holder to come apart, exposing the blade locating pins.
Once you've loaded a blade, it is as simple (almost) process of reversing the steps taken to open. I say almost, as the snapped blade does have a habit of moving around in the holder until you've developed the knack of holding, locating and closing the razor. The blade type is a snapped DE blade, and when you snap the blade, there is a bit of a kink where the blade was folded then snapped. If you don't get it quite right, the blade exposure will be uneven and therefore presents a danger to your skin. Definitely take your time when loading blades.
I find that it pays to trial many blade types in the razor to find one that suits your beard growth and skin. I find you need a sharp, but smooth blade in this razor. Duller blades such as Derby tend to tug, something you really don't want when taking an exposed blade to your face. Gillette 7 o'clock Yellow or Astra Superior Stainless work best for me.
In use, the hinge point of the razor is fluid enough to manipulate during the shave, yet tight enough so as not to move once you have the razor in a position you are comfortable with. The plastic scales are light weight, and the razor is comfortable to hold. The shave experience is entirely dependent on your ability to maintain a feather light touch with the razor, and to be able to dedicate time to learning the required angles to ensure you don't cause your face to resemble a doner kebab. And this is the downside to a shavette type razor. The blades are extremely keen, and very much suited to a safety razor.
CONCLUSIVE COMMENTS:
In short, it's a piece of shaving equipment that absolutely demands respect. In inexperienced or heavy hands it can cause some damage, and indeed to this day, I can still get irritation when I'm not giving it 110% of my attention. It is a useful piece of kit however, as I can also use it to tidy up my sideburns or mow down several days of growth in a single pass much easier than a double edged razor. Should you get one? Well, yes. It WILL force you to slow down and analyse your technique, and as such, develop a better technique and knowledge of your face.
WHAT IS IT, AND WHAT DOES IT DO?
Edwin Jagger DELLI14bl Lilac Double Edge Razor - Purchased for the wife as a gift after she expressed an interest in DE shaving. I will admit I've used it a few times myself, after all, when in Rome!
DESCRIPTION:
Blurb below direct from Edwin Jagger:
"The all new Edwin Jagger Lady's Pearl-Effect DE Razor is the only wet-shaving product designed specifically for women who are looking for a clean and effective shave, with a razor that reflects personality. A longer handle provides enhanced reach, for those trickier areas and a choice of four beautiful new pearl-effect colours means you can have a smooth shave without compromising on style. This razor will give you a soft and close shave when used with our Edwin Jagger shaving creams and lotions and we advise that you swap your blades regularly for optimal use. These fabulous, much talked about, DE razors are fitted with a precision Edwin Jagger DE blade head, a favourite amongst experienced wet shavers. The closed comb head is expertly engineered and is finished with high quality chrome plate. Dimensions:Handle Length 93mm(3.7in) Total Length 101mm(4in)"
I've taken some photos showing the individual parts of the razor and how they fit together. Notice the quality of the plating, the finish overall and the fit. It's a quality item make no mistake.
CONCLUSIVE COMMENTS:
This is a well built razor, mild in use and quite forgiving. For those starting out in traditional wet shaving, or those looking for a mild razor, you'd be hard pressed to beat the DE89 head from Edwin Jagger. The handle personally for me is a little on the slippery side, but not to the point it is rendered unusable. The colour too, as per the description from EJ, is really aimed at women or those who really like lilac! Not my personal taste, but my wife loves it. She is able to use it with comfort (as indeed can I), without feeling too much of the blade.
